Thick fabric will fit large. Calico: what kind of fabric is it - antiquity or modernity

The quality and strength of bed linen depends not only on the composition of the fabric, but also on the method weave threads and fabric density (this is the number of threads per 1 cm2).

Interlacing of threads

This is the order of the sequential arrangement (weaving) of the threads with each other in accordance with weave report , which form fabric, curtain-tulle products, knitwear, etc., with the appearance, structure and properties characteristic of this weave.
Any fabric consists of two perpendicular interlaced threads:

warp threadsthat are located along the fabric;
weft threadsthat run across the fabric.

Weave report is the minimum number of threads required to complete the weaving pattern.

The sequence in which the threads are intertwined creates a particular pattern on the fabric and gives it various properties. The number of patterns of weaving weaves is great and they are divided into simple (basic) and complex.

TO simple weave include linen, twill, satin and satin, etc.

TO complex weaves include double-faced, double-layer, pique, pile, loop, leno, large-patterned, etc.

The most common type is plain weave, it has a uniform surface on both sides of the fabric - outside and inside.
With this weave, the weft thread overlaps one warp thread (see the figure in the Calico section). Such weaving is carried out from thick threads and it is very frequent, it is distinguished by a characteristic pattern - threads running crosswise, as in a checkerboard pattern.With this weaving the threads are held together the strongest therefore the fabric will be the most durable. But due to private bends of the threads, it will be the most rigid.

Twill weave gives diagonal (oblique) stripes (rib) on the fabric. In this type of weave, the weft thread overlaps the 2 and 3 warp threads or vice versa. Twill weaves include twill, boston, etc.

Satin weave (or satin) gives the fabric a smooth, shiny surface. In these fabrics one weft thread overlaps 4-8 warp threads (see the figure in the "Satin" stripped section), i.e.threads are intertwined with threads of another row not through one, but with significant gaps.
Satin weave features a characteristic pattern -subtle diagonal on smooth fabric ... Due to the rarer crossing, the fabricoutwardly dense, smooth and shiny, but smooth, soft and flexible to the touch ... This fabric is even more abrasion resistant. But due to the complexity of production, it is also more expensive.The more the thread is twisted, the brighter the shine.

Calico

The most famous type of fabric for bedding. Thick cotton dense fabric plain weave.
Calico - matte fabric, it does not have a shine, unlike satin.

There are several varieties of it with a density of 100 - 145 g / m2. The higher the density (and the thinner the thread), the higher the quality of the fabric.
Coarse calico in accordance with GOST - this is a canvas with a density of 145 gr./sq.m It is a very dense, durable and practical fabric, therefore they often sew from it linens for various institutions such as hotels, hospitals, sanatoriums. However, to make the linen as light and soft as possible, an average weave density is used and its density is 125 g / m2.
There are several types of coarse calico:

harsh calico (unpainted and unbleached) - this is the most dense type of coarse calico. It has a creamy shade and is most often used for upholstery and workwear.
bleached calico (or canvas) - thinner and softer than harsh. Bedding is sewn from it.
plain dyed calico - when the material is painted in one color. In its structure, it corresponds to bleached calico. Lining for suits, table and bed linen is mainly sewn from such calico.
printed calico - the fabric has a colored pattern. From such coarse calico they sew bed linen, children's and adult things for socks.

Coarse calico bedding sets are very practical, do not require special care and are quite cheap, withstand a large number of washings and are popular with buyers.

Satin

Shiny and soft cotton fabric satin weave .

The satin weave fabric has increased abrasion resistance, glides well, has a flat and smooth surface. Satin is pleasant to the touch and is characterized by good softness and elasticity.
Linen made from it is durable and can withstand a large number of washes - 200-300, and only after a long time the material begins to fade a little.
This is a durable high density fabric of 120-140 threads / cm, which is practically wrinkle-free.

There are several types of satin: coupon, mako-satin, satin-jacquard.

Coupon satin is a kind of satin and differs individual pattern on pillowcases, and a unique pattern on the duvet cover, since they are not sewn from stamped fabric with a repeating pattern, but from fabric, the pattern on which is specially designed for a certain size of the product. Each coupon duvet cover is like an art picture .

Mako satinis a kind of satin, made from high quality Egyptian cotton ... Mako satin differs from satin in the ratio of interwoven threads - per 1 square centimeter: 50 strands longitudinally, 31 strands transverse. This ratio allows you to make the fabric especially strong and at the same time thin, light and smooth, silky in appearance and to the touch. This is a very beautiful, comfortable, thin and at the same time dense fabric, it is easy to wash, requires a minimum of ironing. In addition, the fabric is highly breathable.

Satin jacquard - complex, tangled, dense weave of threads with a relief pattern. The pattern on the fabric appears by intricate weaving performed on a loom. This loom was invented in 1801 by the French weaver and inventor J.M. Jacquard. The jacquard loom is called one of the most perfect machines ever created. The basic principles of the jacquard loom have remained practically unchanged, with the exception of an increase in the speed of work and the use of modern computer technology. The uniqueness of the jacquard mechanism lies in the ability to use hundreds of threads on the machine to create patterns of any complexity.
Jacquard satin bed linens are often sewn either in plain colors, or using two colors, but one tone.
The fabric is particularly durable. Printed patterns make fabrics luxurious, making bedding made from this material the perfect gift.

Poplin

Thick fabric like calico, plain weave , is made, as a rule, of cotton, less often woolen, silk and synthetic threads.
The technology by which poplin is produced is the alternation of a thin, dense base of threads with a coarser and thinner transverse weft, due to which the fabric is obtained in a small transverse rib.
Despite the high density, the fabric is soft and pleasant to the touch. Shirts are very often sewn from poplin.

Weave density

The quality of the fabric also depends on the density of the weave of the threads, i.e. from the number of threads in a square centimeter of fabric.
The higher the thread count, the higher the quality of the fabric. At normal fabric density, about 40-50% of its volume is occupied by threads.

The classification looks like this:
Low density (20-30 threads per 1 cm 2),
Below average (35-40 threads),
Medium (50-65 threads),
Above average (65-80),
High (85-120),
Very high (130-280).

Weight, durability, air permeability, heat-shielding properties, rigidity and drape of fabrics depend on density.Each of the listed properties of the fabric, in turn, significantly affects ready-made clothes, as well as on the technological processes of its production.

Calico is a cotton fabric with frequent plain weaving (criss-cross). Thick threads, special weave and weft on both sides provide density, practicality and quality of the fabric.

Coarse calico is very easy to iron, because it practically does not wrinkle, and washing it is not at all a hassle. Even after a lot of washes, the fabric will remain bright. Due to the dullness of the canvas, it is difficult to confuse it with satin.

Calico is a hypoallergenic material, as it is made of high quality 100% cotton. Thanks to this, the fabric not only perfectly absorbs moisture, but also retains heat. Sleep on a bed made by coarse bed linen, very comfortable: not cold in winter and not hot in summer.

Varieties of coarse calico

The characteristic of coarse calico for bed linen is necessary so that the buyer can appreciate all the advantages of this weaving and choose a quality product. There are the following types of coarse calico:

Unbleached (harsh), untreated. It is mainly used as a lining material for the clothing and footwear industries.
Bleached. It is used for household needs, as well as for sewing bed linen and diapers for children.
Printed. Goes mainly to sewing dresses and robes for women and children.
Plain dyed. Used for sewing lining on coats and suits, always of the same color, has no seamy side.

In addition, coarse calico is divided into:

Percale is a fabric with a fine weave of threads, with a smooth matte surface, which is used for luxury bedding.
Super-cotton is a sturdy fabric with a high density weave. The special treatment prevents the formation of pills on it.

What is the density of coarse calico

The density of coarse calico can be from 100 to 160 g / sq.m. Weave density is low, medium and high.
The fabric with the lowest density can be identified by looking closely at it (it will transmit light). Such fabric is the cheapest, and its wear resistance is very low. Calico with an average density of 125 g / sq.m. - coarse calico "Lux". The whiter bedding made of such a linen is very light, soft and pleasant to the touch, therefore it is ideal for home. The highest density (145 g / sq.m.) Has the fabric, the weaving of which is made in accordance with GOST. It is very durable, therefore it is used for sewing linen used in hotels, sanatoriums, medical institutions.

Qualitative characteristics of coarse calico for bed linen:

naturalness (cotton used for the manufacture of fabrics is not dyed with synthetic dyes);
low crease (fabric ironed with a hot iron does not wrinkle);
lightness, color stability;
hygiene is a property that allows coarse calico to take a decent place in the ranking of modern fabrics and even compete with them;
availability (prices for such a canvas significantly increase the demand for the product).

Today coarse calico is the most basic type of fabrics for bed linen. You can buy a high-quality kit via the Internet at http://viotex-37.ru/byaz_ivanov.

At the present time, coarse calico bedding is available in almost every home. People who buy it are satisfied with its quality and high durability.

Despite the fact that a lot of synthetic fabrics have appeared, the love for natural materials is firmly preserved. This can be judged by the natural bed linen in every house. The most popular is coarse calico.

Coarse calico in Russia has been known for a long time. Merchants from Asia brought it to Muscovy as early as the 16th century. The name of the fabric comes from the Arabic "bäzz". At the end of the 18th century, it began to be produced in the Kineshemsky district. Lining for caftans and soldiers' underwear was sewn from an affordable fabric. In the 19th century, children's and women's clothing was sewn from printed coarse calico, and the lining of a coat was made from plain dyed.

Calico - cotton fabric. The method of interweaving the threads is plain: they are intertwined crosswise. The surface of the fabric is smooth and matte in appearance, the same on both sides. The fabric is environmentally friendly, hypoallergenic, wear-resistant. This is a great bedding material:

washes well, withstands several hundred washes, keeping the size, color and pattern;
ironing it is easy, you do not need to steam;
pleasant to the touch;
breathes air (skin breathes);
hygroscopic (sweat is absorbed);
does not accumulate static electricity;
affordable.

Disadvantages are insignificant: there is no glitter that many people like. And, after a fairly long period of use, pellets may appear on the products. How much is? The price of coarse calico varies from 30 to 150 rubles per meter, depending on the manufacturer and the density of the fabric.

Now coarse calico is widely used for sewing bed linen, diapers for children, clothes for children. She is preferred primarily because of her naturalness. Practicality (easy to wash and iron) is also important. Children's coarse calico is a little softer to the touch than usual, and the huge range of children's colors is simply amazing!

The quality of the material depends on its density. The higher the density (thread weight per square meter), the better the fabric.

According to GOST 29298 2005, the density of coarse calico should be 145 g / sq. m. Such a canvas is very durable and wear-resistant. It is considered the best. Bed linen is sewn from it for public institutions: orphanages, sanatoriums, hotels and hospitals.
For home textiles, coarse calico of medium density is suitable - 125 g / sq. m.
If the density of the fabric is less than 120 g / sq. m, then it will be short-lived, it can stretch out during washing. Looking at it into the light, you can see a clear weaving mesh. Such material is less wear-resistant, its cost is lower. Often, dyes for such fabric are not of high quality: the product can shed.

Types and application

Depending on the density and color, the material is divided into several types:

Differences from other cotton fabrics

Comparison with chintz. These fabrics have the same weaving, but cotton threads for chintz are taken thinner than for calico. Chintz is always 100 cotton, and calico may contain a small amount of synthetic fibers. Chintz is produced in widths of 85 cm and 90 cm. Therefore, chintz sheets and duvet covers will always have a seam in the middle, which consumers do not like. The colors are short-lived, often nondescript. Now many manufacturers produce thinned chintz. Chintz is cheaper than calico.
Comparison with satin. “Satin” is the name given to the fabric by the way the threads are woven. Thin and tightly twisted, they are intertwined a little intricately. It is thanks to the weaving method that satin has a shiny surface (coarse calico does not have such shine). By appearance resembles silk. The fabric can be cotton, synthetic or blended. Satin is more expensive than coarse calico. Which is the stronger of them, it is impossible to say unequivocally. It all depends on the quality of the material. the composition of the satin fabric is described in detail.
Comparison and poplin. Poplin is a fabric made of threads of different thicknesses (longitudinal - thicker, and transverse - thinner). If you look closely at this matter, you can see small scars on the surface. Originally the poplin was silk, and the calico was 100% cotton. In Russia, poplin is produced mainly from cotton, and the imported fabric consists of a mixture of cotton and synthetics in different proportions. Poplin can also contain wool, silk, and viscose fibers. The material is soft and pleasant to the touch, looks great in any color. Poplin shines a little, and calico is matte. Poplin looks more refined than calico, but it also costs more. ? In terms of density, high-quality coarse calico is denser (120 - 145 g / sq. M), poplin density - 115 g / sq. m. These numbers are often arbitrary. In reality, fabrics from China and Pakistan are thinner. Learn more about poplin density. Only textile factories located on the territory of the former USSR are guided by Soviet GOSTs. The qualitative characteristics of poplin and coarse calico are similar, but there are differences. Both fabrics are quite wear-resistant, but coarse calico is still more durable and resistant to wear. Sometimes, with improper care, poplin can give a slight shrinkage (this is more true for fabrics that contain silk or wool). Calico is mainly used for sewing bed linen. Poplin was originally envisaged for sewing clothes. Poplin underwear is becoming more and more popular, but at a cost it is more expensive than coarse calico.
Comparison with polycotton. Polycotton is a blended fabric consisting of polyester and cotton. It tells in detail about the composition of polycotton. Bed linen, mattresses, pillows and blankets are sewn from it. Matter can be different types, depending on the quantitative composition of the fibers. In the case when there is less polyester than cotton or equally fibers, the fabric has remarkable properties, is excellent for bedding and competes with coarse calico sets. The predominance of synthetics in the composition worsens the quality characteristics of the material, it is less suitable for bedding, although it will cost much less.
Comparison with percale... The weaving of threads for percale and coarse calico is the same. The fabrics are very similar in terms of quality. There are also differences: percale is thinner, softer and more delicate to the touch. Calico is a little rougher, its surface is a little rough, although it is also pleasant to the body. Percale has a high density (132 g / sq. M) with a relative fineness. This effect is achieved due to the quality of the threads: thin threads for percale do not twist, but are glued together with a special compound. The differences between the tissues are not critical. Percale products (bed linen) are elite textiles, and can be more expensive than coarse calico. And coarse calico has long and well established itself as an excellent material for bedding at an affordable price. It's probably worth choosing between them only in terms of color and cost. Also about the composition of the fabric percale.

Different manufacturers - different calico

Ivanovo. In Russia, the popular Ivanovo coarse calico. Enterprises in Ivanovo produce it in different types: harsh, bleached, one-colored, with a printed pattern. Ivanovskaya coarse calico is high quality, beautiful colors and affordable price. Bed and table linen, men's shirts, medical gowns and children's clothing are sewn from it. Ivanovskaya coarse calico contains 100% cotton. The material is completely natural, it may be inferior to analogues of other manufacturers in density, but it has an affordable cost, which makes it popular.
KhBC "Shuiskie Chintz".Coarse calico produced by KhBK "Shuiskie Chintsy" enjoys a good reputation among the Russian consumer. The density of Shuya coarse calico corresponds to GOST (142 g / sq. M.). The fabric is durable and practical. But there is a fake Shuya fabric on sale. In order not to be mistaken, pay attention to the density (the fake is not dense) and to the price (Shuya coarse calico CPB will not cost less than 1000 rubles).
Turkish - high quality fabric, lightweight. It can be 100% cotton, or it can have a very small (15%) addition of synthetic fibers. The colors are bright, beautiful. With prolonged use, the color does not change, the fabric does not roll. Used for sewing bed linen, as well as light summer clothes, light curtains and table linen. Turkey is one of the main producers of the material.
Pakistani - high quality material, which contains 80% cotton and 20% synthetic fibers. Density - 130 g / sq. m. Cotton ensures the hygroscopicity of the fabric, its lightness and softness, the ability to let air in and keep warm. Synthetic threads increase its wear resistance. The fabric with such a composition practically does not wrinkle and is very easy to iron. Pakistani calico - high quality, wear-resistant, practical, very pleasant to the body. Only its high price can confuse.

Also, perhaps you are better off: poplin or satin.

The quality and price of coarse calico depend on its density: the denser, the better and more expensive. And vice versa. Quality fabric - natural. Therefore, preference should be given to the fabric, which contains more cotton.

January 28, 2013 - 22:29

Everyone who is going to buy bed linen, in varying degrees, pays attention to its practical and operational properties. Long gone are the days when linen was selected only by size and appearance. Now the buyer has become more demanding and pays attention to many little things.

One of the main characteristics of any fabric is its density. It is measured in the number of threads per square centimeter of fabric. The more threads, the denser the fabric. Always pay attention to this parameter - it should be indicated on the package. If it is not there, it means that the manufacturer has approached his business in bad faith.

According to government standards, the density of a fabric is:

Very high (130 to 280 n / cm).
High (from 85 to 120 n / cm).
Above average (65 to 80 n / cm).
Medium (50-65 n / cm)
Below average (35-40 n / cm)
Low (20-30 n / cm)

If we talk about specific fabrics, for example, percale is considered high-density, Turkish silk has a higher density than average, many synthetic fabrics, and cambric or chintz is low in density.

If you buy linen or cotton, it should be medium-weight - that is, contain about 35-65 threads per square centimeter.

The density of Chinese silk is measured in a different way - the unit of its measurement is mommi (the number of threads per millimeter of linen). So, such silk is considered good, which contains about 16 threads per millimeter. The American system of measurement is not the number of threads, but grams per square meter.

What does it affect?

The density of a fabric influences almost all of its practical characteristics. So, the denser the fabric, the:

Its hygroscopicity is higher - the ability to absorb moisture.
Below is the coefficient of ventilation - the ability of the fabric to "breathe" - to let the atmospheric air through.
Longer service life of bed linen. Low-weight fabrics last less than high-weight fabrics.
Higher fabric strength. The denser the fabric, the more difficult it is to tear. Thanks to this, it wears out less and is less demanding to maintain.
Below is her hygiene. In dense tissue, pathogenic bacteria or fungal organisms are more likely to develop, especially when it comes to synthetics.

As we can see, density affects almost all properties of bedding. When buying bedding, be sure to pay attention to this parameter. Although thicker fabrics are more expensive, they are better suited for bedding.

Marina

Content:

Satin is widely used for sewing bed linen, curtains, clothes and bedspreads. The popularity of the material is explained by its beauty, color durability, lack of shrinkage after washing, and affordable cost. It is soft to the touch, and is not inferior in gloss to silk.

In addition, satin linen does not cause allergic reactions and skin irritation in a person.

According to some features, satin is divided into several types. The density of the fabric according to GOST is considered to be the number of intertwined threads in 1 cm 2.

Plain satin has a density 85-130 weaves per cm 2... It is dyed by pigment printing and mercerized. This way of processing the fabric gives it additional strength, shine, and prevents the fibers from rolling on the surface of the fabric.
The stuffing material is denser - up to 170 weaves in 1 cm 2... To create a pattern on the canvas, the reactive printing method is used.
Printed satin has a second name - coupon. This patterning method allows you to create patterned bedding that is the same style but different sizes for pillowcases and sheets and duvet covers. The density of the coupon satin is the same as that of the printed one.
Jacquard is another type of fabric, with a density of threads 170-220 in 1 cm 2... It is double-sided, the pattern is created with colored threads in the process of making the canvas. It looks like the finest tapestry. In this case, the main background has a matte base, and the elements of the pattern are shiny, as if they are below the main background.
Mako-satin is the densest type of canvas that has 1 cm 2 over 220 threads.

Important: for the production of dense types of satin, cotton threads of the smallest diameter are used. The fabric obtained from them is very light, but at the same time has increased strength.

Density of satin for bed linen

Lovers of high-quality bedding are not even confused by the fact that the cost of satin is higher than the cost of many other cotton fabrics. The advantage is given to the strength and beauty of the canvas, which retains its qualities for a long time.

When choosing satin bedding sets, you should still pay attention to the marking of the density of the material according to GOST. Not all types of satin are recommended for sewing bed linen. The highest quality and most durable bedding is made from satin with the amount of weave from 140 to 1 cm 2 and higher. These are printed and coupon fabrics, jacquard and mako-satin.

Important: sometimes the density of the fabric on the package bed set not indicated by the number of weave threads on 1 cm 2, and in grams. Better quality satin bed linen has a fabric density of at least 120 g per 1 m 2.

The density of satin depends on the number of weft or warp threads on 1m 2 fabrics. Satin refers to uneven fabrics due to the way the threads are woven (at the rate of 1: 4 - the weft thread to the warp threads). Therefore, to determine the quality of a fabric, the concepts of linear and surface density are used.

The shape of the cell of the fabric and, accordingly, its strength, elasticity in the lobar and transverse directions depend on the ratio of the density of the weft threads and the warp. Even with the same number of threads in both directions, their thickness can be different, which affects the density of the fabric. The ratio of the actual number of warp threads to the number of threads that could be located on a piece of fabric of the corresponding length at maximum filling is called the relative, or linear density.

Surface density

The surface density of any fabric is considered to be the ratio of its mass to a unit area. In this case, the mass is measured in grams, and the area - in square meters. So, satin used for sewing bed linen, the surface density should be 120 - 145 g / m 2.

This value depends on the linear density, the way the threads are woven, and their diameter. Thinner fabrics have lower areal density.

Advice: the indicator of the surface density of the material can be determined by a calculation method, by weighing the material and calculating its area.

About weaving threads

This beautiful, durable cotton fabric got its name precisely from the special way of weaving threads, which is called satin.

To create a fabric with this name, two types of threads of different density are used: the basis is made up of dense threads of a larger diameter, and twisted threads of a thinner section are involved in creating the front side.

With satin weave, one twisted front thread accounts for at least four warp threads. As a result, a smooth shiny surface is formed on the front side of the fabric, silky to the touch, with a diagonal weave pattern.

The stronger the weft threads are twisted, the brighter the shine of the front surface and the higher the strength of the satin fabric. The reverse side of the fabric is matte, soft, tactilely reminiscent of flannel.

Caring for satin bedding

Satin bedding can last for many years without losing its external qualities and strength. The main condition for this is the observance of the rules for caring for things made of satin fabrics:

Wash satin linen only inside out.
The optimum water temperature for washing should be not higher than 40 ° С.
Do not wash colored satin products using detergents that contain bleaching ingredients.
Use the products recommended for satin fabrics to remove stains. It is necessary to handle the dirt before putting the laundry in the washing machine for washing.
It is not recommended to wash satin bed linen with other fabrics. This can prematurely strip it of its shine and softness.
It is better to iron slightly damp laundry from the wrong side.